Cerro Champaquí Traditional: 3-Day Trekking

Ascending Cerro Champaquí is often a sublime, unforgettable experience. The intimate contact with the wild generates in the hiker the expression of the noblest human values: solidarity and tolerance among others. It is necessary to arrive at the city of Córdoba, capital of the Province of Córdoba (Republic of Argentina) either by air or land. From there, travel to Villa Gral. Belgrano via Provincial Route No. 5, passing through Alta Gracia, completing a total journey of approximately 80 km. From Villa Gral. Belgrano, turn west on a dirt road to reach Villa Alpina, a 40 km journey. The adventure begins on this very road, with curves and steep climbs framed by a special nature dotted with pine forests. Perhaps, about 20 km in, in the Athos Pampa area, the temptation will arise to turn right to access the dreamlike places of La Cumbrecita. Villa Alpina is located at 1,340 m. It is situated at the northern foot of La Mesilla and divided into two sectors by the Los Reartes river, on whose banks you can camp or enjoy a day of recreation or fishing. Crossing the ford, you reach Don Pancho Escalante's store, one of the area's most historic inhabitants and a faithful guardian of the village. From a picturesque arch that marks the start of the trail, at 10:30 am we will begin the march. At first, we enter the Pine forest, considered by many as the most important obstacle of the entire excursion, but also one of the most pleasant: new aromas, fresh streams, luxurious vegetation. When the forest opens, the slope of La Mesilla must be tackled. Numerous viewpoints will showcase the best of the Calamuchita Valley; these can coincide with necessary stops for hikers. The gates warn us of the many ranches in the region. The first will be what was once the Salinas Ranch, known for its wicker plants, now called Ojo de Agua. Continuing along the path, you reach the stop "El Tabaquillo" at the Orco stream. Up to here, 480 m of ascent from Villa Alpina will have been made. A beautiful specimen of that tree is the first to be noticed during the excursion. It is recognized by its characteristic bark resembling layers of fine cinnamon-colored scales. After a short stretch, La Mesilla will have been climbed. It is noticeable by the access to "La Ventana": the trail that climbs very steeply breaks to descend abruptly. The landscape changes: vegetation disappears and the impression of a stone desert appears, barely crossed by some streams. The sensation at this point is unique: fatigue seems to magically give way to the opening of new senses, those that will make us enter into communion with nature. Looking up, you can already see "El Mirador de la Bota", the next objective that will allow, turning west, access to Estancia San José, a mountain ranch of Moisés López, attended by the family of Sebastián, his son. This will be the ideal place to renew energy through a trail lunch with a wide and picturesque landscape. In the second part of the first day, we must suddenly ascend 100 m of elevation, reach the "Paso del Nicho" and descend to the "Socavón" stream where we will refill our bottles. From there, a path of ascents and descents of varied intensity awaits us. The trail will begin to wind seeking the Virgin Desert, crowned by La Gruta, an occasional rock completely eroded inside, where we find an image of the Virgin of Lourdes. The end of Moisés López's lands warns of the arrival at Puesto Cufré. This ranch, a solid stone construction, will be seen to the right of the path. The landscape experienced was lived with a multiplicity of feelings: strange rock shapes, greens of different light, horses and other animals watching the marked trail encouraged the pace. The immediate purpose is to approach Cerro Lechiguanas, an elevation that stands out in the ridge before the one occupied by Champaquí. Skirting it, a small meadow will amaze, a breath in the effort and a sure sign of arrival at the Tabaquillo River. The Tabaquillo River serves as the base for Cerro Champaquí. In less than an hour we will be at our ranch, where a snack will be served and later dinner. The total walking hours, including stops, will be about 8 hours on average.

Without the burden of backpacks, we begin the ascent of about four hours until reaching the summit. The trail is carved into the rock like a channel, evidence of water and wind erosion. Shortly after starting, the Waterfall appears, one of the most beautiful spectacles of Champaquí, which forces hikers to enjoy the fresh water and its usual music. Returning to the rocky trail, and among interesting pegmatitic dikes that surprise with their sculptural formation. Few streams appear. The two most important nourish one of the most beautiful areas of the path. They are accompanied by wildflowers, abundant tabaquillos, and curious reptiles. Crossing that oasis among the inert rocks, a new fork invites, to the right, to visit the Stone House or also known as the “Cave of the Forty,” since this considerable cave once sheltered forty horses with their riders during a storm. Next to its entrance, a faithful guardian, an old tabaquillo. At the mentioned fork, the trail to the left will take us to the Miner’s Refuge or “Kiosquito,” a hollow behind the Cave of the Forty, a resting area reached after bypassing the Frozen Rivers (only seen in winter). The walk becomes slow and breathing is difficult. The Canyon or passage of the “Twin Stones” is an area with large broken, detached, and disordered rocks. It is necessary to help oneself with hands, taking care to avoid hitting ankles and knees. Rarely a transparent little stream runs to one side. The figure of an Iron Christ protects one of the last stretches. Willpower is tested. A few meters above, the “Slide,” a large smooth rock, will demand the most varied skills to close the last effort towards the awaited summit. In this place, in times of great influx, the expressions of joy of those who arrived can already be heard, which greatly motivates and excites. Before reaching our goal, we will head south along the same ridge to visit The Balcony, a strategic place to appreciate the immensity of the Traslasierras valley. From there, in a few minutes, we will be at the top of Cerro Champaquí. On each of the rocky mounds of the summit hill, the hand of man has left the testimony of its passage. Drawing imaginary lines from all of them, a pentagonal polygon is formed enclosing the hollow that often contains water. To the N.N.W. of the bust of San Martín is that of Jorge Newbery; breaking the imaginary line towards the NE is the mast. From the mast to the S.E. is the angle marking the I.G.M. milestone where 2,790 m are identified, a small tower similar to a bench; finally, from this to the S, the line touches the Cross embedded in the hill. Those with a mathematical spirit can verify Heron's formula: according to it, taking the five points mentioned as angle vertices, the summit area is 2,822 m2, approximately one third of an urban block. Having been up there for more than an hour, what remains is to retrace the path and return to our refuge. The total walking hours, including stops, will be about 9 hours on average.